If you’re wondering what viscose is and whether it’s natural, synthetic, sustainable, or harmful—you’re not alone. Viscose is one of the most widely used fabrics in the world, often seen on clothing labels but rarely understood in full. It’s soft like cotton, drapes like silk, and offers a breathable alternative to synthetics. Yet behind this comfort lies a complex story of chemistry, industrialization, environmental debate, and fashion innovation. This article explores viscose from its 19th-century invention to its 21st-century reinvention—and answers everything you need to know about this misunderstood material.
What Is Viscose?
Viscose is a semi-synthetic fiber made from cellulose, typically derived from wood pulp. Although the raw material is natural, the production process involves several chemical treatments that transform the cellulose into a spinnable fiber. Often referred to interchangeably with rayon, vis-cose stands at the intersection of nature and industry—an early pioneer of artificial fabric innovation long before polyester and nylon came into the picture.
How Viscose Is Made: The Science Behind the Softness
The production of vis-cose involves a multi-step chemical transformation. Though the raw materials—trees—are organic, the process blurs the line between natural and synthetic.
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| Cellulose Extraction | Wood pulp (usually from beech, pine, or eucalyptus trees) is harvested and treated. |
| Alkalization | The pulp is soaked in sodium hydroxide to produce alkali cellulose. |
| Aging | The solution is left to age under controlled conditions to reduce molecular weight. |
| Xanthation | Carbon disulfide is added, turning the mixture into a yellowish, highly viscous solution. |
| Dissolution | This solution is diluted to create a thick, honey-like liquid called viscose. |
| Spinning | The viscose is extruded through spinnerets into an acid bath, regenerating the cellulose fiber. |
| Washing and Finishing | The new fibers are washed, bleached, and dried to become yarns ready for textile use. |
The result is a fiber that can mimic silk, cotton, wool, or linen depending on how it’s processed. The versatility of vis-cose makes it a staple in everything from dresses to upholstery.
A Short History of Viscose
Viscose was first developed in the late 19th century by scientists looking to create an affordable alternative to silk. The breakthrough came in 1891, when British chemists Charles Cross, Edward Bevan, and Clayton Beadle patented the vis-cose process.
The material took off in the early 20th century under the commercial name “rayon”, with vis-cose rayon being its most common subtype. By the mid-1900s, it had become an indispensable part of mass-produced clothing and textiles, offering comfort and affordability.
Viscose vs. Rayon vs. Modal vs. Lyocell
The textile world often confuses vis-cose with other regenerated cellulose fibers. While they all start from wood pulp, the manufacturing process and environmental impact vary.
| Fiber Type | Base Material | Production Method | Properties | Environmental Impact |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Viscose | Wood pulp | Viscose process | Soft, absorbent, drapes well | Moderate to high (traditional) |
| Rayon | Wood pulp | Generic category | Varies by subtype | Varies |
| Modal | Beechwood pulp | Modified viscose | More durable, better moisture wicking | Lower than viscose |
| Lyocell | Wood pulp | Closed-loop solvent process | Strong, breathable, eco-friendlier | Low (sustainable method) |
In this hierarchy, lyocell (marketed as TENCEL™) and modal are often promoted as more sustainable evolutions of viscose, thanks to closed-loop processes that recover and reuse solvents.
Benefits of Viscose: Why It’s So Popular
Viscose is beloved by designers, consumers, and manufacturers for several reasons:
- Soft and Comfortable: Feels luxurious on the skin, often compared to cotton or silk.
- Breathable: Allows air circulation, making it ideal for summer wear.
- Drapes Beautifully: Offers a fluid, elegant silhouette in garments.
- Absorbent: Excellent moisture absorption compared to synthetics like polyester.
- Affordable: Provides a cost-effective alternative to silk or wool.
- Blend-Friendly: Easily blends with cotton, polyester, and other fibers.
These properties make vis-cose a go-to material for dresses, blouses, linings, underwear, curtains, and even cleaning wipes.
The Environmental Debate: Viscose’s Darker Side
Despite its natural origins, vis-cose is not always eco-friendly. Its environmental impact depends on both the source of the wood and the chemicals used in production.
1. Deforestation Concerns
Many viscose producers harvest wood from ancient or endangered forests, threatening biodiversity. Although sustainable sources like FSC-certified plantations exist, enforcement remains inconsistent across countries.
2. Chemical Pollution
Traditional vis-cose production uses carbon disulfide, a neurotoxic chemical, which poses health risks to workers and contributes to air and water pollution if improperly managed.
3. Waste Management
The process generates chemical waste and wastewater that, if not treated properly, can damage ecosystems. In poorly regulated regions, vis-cose plants have been linked to significant environmental degradation.
4. Labor Practices
Factories in developing nations sometimes expose workers to unsafe chemical environments without adequate protections. Ethical supply chains are far from universal.
Moving Toward Sustainable Viscose
With increased consumer awareness and regulatory pressure, the vis-cose industry is evolving. Here’s how:
| Innovation | Description |
|---|---|
| Closed-Loop Systems | Solvents are recovered and reused, reducing emissions and waste. |
| FSC-Certified Wood | Raw materials sourced from responsibly managed forests. |
| Green Chemistry | Use of less harmful chemicals and alternatives to carbon disulfide. |
| Supply Chain Auditing | Independent audits ensure compliance with labor, safety, and environmental standards. |
| Transparency Platforms | Brands now disclose sourcing through platforms like Canopy and EcoVadis. |
Several major brands—including H&M, Zara, and Stella McCartney—have made commitments to sourcing “eco-responsible vis-cose”, though real-world implementation remains a work in progress.
Viscose in Fashion: Trends and Usage
Viscose has long been a favorite of the fashion industry, particularly for high-street brands looking to deliver soft, flowing styles at scale.
Common Uses:
- Women’s Dresses and Blouses
- Lingerie and Nightwear
- Scarves and Shawls
- Suit Linings
- Athleisure and Yoga Wear (blended with spandex)
- Home Textiles: Drapes, Cushion Covers, Table Linens
In recent years, boho-chic, resort wear, and eco-conscious collections have leaned heavily into vis-cose due to its silk-like drape and soft hand feel.
Notable Designers and Brands
- Eileen Fisher and Mara Hoffman have used sustainable vis-cose in capsule collections.
- Uniqlo and COS frequently feature vis-cose blends in minimalist styles.
- Fast fashion giants like Forever 21 and Primark rely heavily on vis-cose for affordable fashion.
How to Care for Viscose Clothing
Caring for viscose requires some attention to avoid shrinkage, warping, or damage.
| Care Instruction | Details |
|---|---|
| Washing | Hand wash or machine wash cold on a gentle cycle. |
| Drying | Lay flat or hang to dry—avoid tumble drying. |
| Ironing | Iron on low heat while damp to remove wrinkles. |
| Storage | Store folded; hanging may stretch the garment. |
| Pilling | May pill with friction; use a fabric shaver if needed. |
Viscose is weaker when wet, so handle with care during washing. Always read the care label.
Myths and Misconceptions
Let’s clear up some common misunderstandings:
“Viscose is completely natural.”
False. While derived from natural sources, vis-cose is chemically processed and classified as semi-synthetic.
“All viscose is bad for the environment.”
Not necessarily. Sustainable vis-cose made with closed-loop processes has a much smaller environmental footprint.
“Viscose is the same as polyester.”
No. Polyester is fully synthetic and non-biodegradable, while vis-cose is partially natural and more breathable.
“Viscose shrinks easily.”
Only if not cared for properly. Following care instructions helps retain size and shape.
The Future of Viscose
The path forward for viscose lies in innovation, regulation, and transparency. As the global textile industry faces scrutiny for its environmental footprint, vis-cose producers are investing in cleaner technologies.
Future developments to watch:
- Bio-based solvents to replace carbon disulfide
- Blockchain traceability for raw materials
- Low-impact dyeing processes compatible with vis-cose fibers
- Circular textile initiatives to recycle vis-cose from old garments
Research is also exploring algae-based cellulose and bacterial nanocellulose as sustainable alternatives to tree-based viscose.
Consumer Checklist: Choosing Better Viscose
If you want to make responsible choices when shopping for vis-cose, consider the following:
- Look for Certifications: FSC, OEKO-TEX, or EU Ecolabel
- Ask About Production: Check if the brand mentions closed-loop or low-impact production
- Avoid Fast Fashion: Rapid turnover often means little oversight
- Check Brand Transparency: Look for published sustainability reports or supplier lists
- Choose Blends Wisely: Modal or Lyocell blends often offer better performance and sustainability
Final Thoughts: A Fabric of Two Worlds
Viscose remains a fabric of contradictions—luxurious yet affordable, natural yet chemical, sustainable yet flawed. It encapsulates the broader dilemmas of modern consumerism and industrial design. But its story is still being written.
As technology advances and ethical sourcing becomes non-negotiable, vis-cose has the potential to evolve from a problematic staple into a model of sustainable innovation. For now, awareness is key. Knowing what vis-cose is, how it’s made, and how to shop for it wisely puts the power in your hands—right where it belongs.
FAQs About Viscose:
- What is viscose made from, and is it a natural or synthetic fabric?
Viscose is made from cellulose, typically derived from wood pulp, and is classified as a semi-synthetic fiber. While its raw materials are natural, the production process involves chemical treatments that distinguish it from fully natural fabrics like cotton or wool. - Is viscose environmentally friendly?
Traditional viscose production has significant environmental concerns, including deforestation and chemical pollution. However, newer methods using closed-loop systems and sustainably sourced wood pulp offer more eco-friendly alternatives. - How does viscose compare to other fabrics like cotton or polyester?
Viscose is softer and drapes better than cotton, while being more breathable than polyester. It is often used as a silk substitute but lacks the durability of cotton and the wrinkle resistance of synthetics. - What are the common uses of viscose in fashion and textiles?
Viscose is widely used in dresses, blouses, linings, scarves, and home textiles. Its fluid drape and soft texture make it a popular choice in both high-street and designer fashion collections. - How should I care for viscose garments to keep them in good condition?
Viscose should be hand washed or gently machine washed in cold water. It should be air-dried and ironed on low heat while damp. Avoid tumble drying, as viscose is more delicate when wet.
Luys Parker